sabato 31 luglio 2021

Eutaw Springs battle - Black Powder July 17, 2021

Italian Peter Dennis paper boys are back in action. This month Ezio, Alberto and Federico decided to play scenario with they paper miniatures using Black Powder set rules.

The battle they played is Eutaw Springs. A battle of American Revolution War fought in early 1781. The large table prepared by my mates is 240 long  by 180 cm wide.

They found the scenario into “Rebellion” one of the best supplement wrote for this period



This battle was part of the Green's campaing. After the battle of Guilford Courthouse, British army under General Cornwallis had retured to the Virginia coast to be rested and reinforced at Yorktown. The Armerican General Greene did not pursue them and decided to re capture the Carolinas from the Crown. In September, Green found the English commander, Lieutenent-Colonel Steward with 2,000 of his men camped not far from Charleston and decided to attack them. Apprised that Green was approaching him, the Colonel elected to stand and fight.



The red-coats deployed in a single line with the British on the right and left, and the Loyalist in the centre. Green arrived in three lines. Militia and light troops first followed by Continenal brigades.

During the battle the American forces pressed the English troops thar were foced to fled. Unfortunately Green units lost the momentum going to the camp to pillage and loot it. Steward reformed his men and launghed a new attack.

The scenario is studied for 12 turns and every commanders must destroy the enemy or, at the end, the Army that eliminated more Brigades will win.

Eutaw Springs had little effect on the outcome oft he war but it was particulary bloody. At the end oft he day both sides claimed the victory.


In our battle, at the end, the Americans win after 12 very hard turns.





mercoledì 28 luglio 2021

Japanese Samurai

One of my club mates, Antonio, is keen of Japanese Samurai and he painted a lot of miniatures so I took them some pictures the last time I went to my club.

Miniatures are all 28mm and made by Steel Fist and Perry Miniatures 

Below some samurai who fought during the Sengoku civil wars in the later sixteenth century. In particular some of the Elite Hatamoto characters. Some of them wield a nagamaki (a long handled sword) or a nodachi (a type on sword that was long handled and sometimes had a blade of five feet in lenght)



Another pictures of Tokugawa leyasu (1543-1616) with his bannermen holding nobori and his warriors. The miniature represents him during the battle of Sekigahara where he led the successful Eastern armies 



Samurai were perfect knights. One of the most costly armours they used was the Namban (with fur thigh guards) or the Niu-do (with scales on the thigh guards and arms) style armour


Samurai used particular bows as these Daikyu


After the Samurai warriors some Ashigaru bannermen, musicians and warrior made by Perry's twins 



Other Ashigaru arquebusier 



To close .. some Yari Ashigaru close to a river



lunedì 5 luglio 2021

M&TII and Rebel and Patriot July 3, 2021

After a very long period I write again a post ... My club opened again two weeks ago after seven months of pause due to Covid emergency. 

My mates last weekend played two matches with the French-Indian wars as scenario.

In the morning they played using Rebel and Patriot while in the afternoon other two of my friends decided for M&TII.

Below some pics of the scenario ... Indian houses and English units are painted by Ezio while French forces are a Jimmy's work.


During the Covid quarantine some of my friends worked on new scenic elements that now we decided to use them



Rogers' rangers are the last unit I painted last week end. I have to admit that French-Indian conflicts and American Revolution are a very interesting period with a lot colored and different type of miniatures to paint. I painted also for the AIW some minis ...



... but now other pics of the miniatures used by friends for the battle





sabato 16 gennaio 2021

How to paint a miniature's face

I want to point out that I am only a amateur wargamers and, as a lot of other lovers of our hobby, I like to share miniatures photos with my friends. Some persons asked me how to paint miniature’ faces so I thought to write this short article. I have to premise that without Aurelian Leclerc's expert guidance and his painting tricks I was not able to write these post … so many thanks to him. If you don't know his works here there is his Instagram link >> https://www.instagram.com/aurelianpaintingstudio/

In recent times I have painted miniatures related to the WW2 and the Franco-Indian Wars for some articles that appeared on the Italian magazine: “Dadi e Piombo” but to create a kind of guide I took some old Warhammer miniatures too.

Now a couple of pics to make you understand what we are talking about ... the miniature in the center is a historical figure who really existed: General Louis Joseph de Montcalm. Warlord Games 28mm miniature.


These are some British paratroopers from the English 6th Airborne Division near Hamminkeln during Operation Varsity. Warlord Games 28mm miniatures


These are some 20mm Canadians from Valiant


In all the three examples, the color combination I used is always the same: 

Vallejo Beige Red 70804; 

Vallejo Dark Fleshtone 72.044;

Vallejo White 72.002 (or any other white of any brand) 

I have tried to break down the various steps and create a series of images that can help.


First step: paint the base with a mixture of Beige Red (80%) and Dark Fleshton (20%) Second step: highlight the base with pure Beige Red. After paint some points 
(as the nose, cheeks and so on) with beige red adding a little quantity of white


Third step: after waiting for a Reikland Flesh wash to dry, to proceed with further highlights. Starting from the same points highlighted in the previous phase, paint again a new coat of Red Beige on them. After this action to highlight all the face points that you want to stand out with a mix of Red Beige plus White increasing the second color quantity in every passage. At this point you have not to surprise if the last step will be practically a white.


As you can see, it is possible to paint a miniature’s face with 3 colors and a wash.

The effects of this color scheme allows good results for a not professional wargamer. Finally, I want to offer you my preliminary study for a USCM miniature for Viet Nam theatre on which I am working on these days. Miniature in 20mm Italeri



I hope I was helpful.

If you need you can contact us through the facebook page of the Piccola Armata

 

 

 


domenica 10 gennaio 2021

December 2020 part 2: Our works

Another post to report all the activities my friends are making to continue with our hobby

First of all ... some pics of SAGA units prepared by one of our best friends: Santi




It seems that fantasy is popular in this period ... I painted some old Warhammer Miniatures ...



Riccardo is preparing new supports for his German army in 28mm and ... 



While Ezio is dedicating his energies on 20mm English troops





sabato 2 gennaio 2021

World Word II ... Is 20mm (1/72) a good scale?

My club is close in this period for Covid-19 emergency so I decided to write this post using some old photos

Sometimes I received messages from other wargame lover about the scale to use to play WWII… 15mm, 20mm or 28mm? Thanks to rules set as Bolt Action, Cross fire and so on … the most used scales is the 28 mm. This scale allows you to create great miniatures with high details level ... but also a 20mm miniature is not to discard.

In your opinion, what scale are the miniatures in these photos?



Obviously they are all 20mm

My idea in this post is to try to create a kind of guide for those who approach 20mm (1/72) for the first time.

Let's start with a list of advances:
They have a low cost (generally 9 - 15 euro per box)
They are easily to find (amazon, ebay are just some of the commercial sites ... in addition to the manufacturers’ ones  ... where you can find them)
They are faster to paint than a classic 28mm
You can re-create large scenarios (in particular if yuo want to use tanks, jeeps and so on)


… But there are also some disadvantages:
Poor level of detail
They are difficult to modify
The poses are sometimes a bit "absurd" ... many of the molds still used are a bit "old style"

In our association we play with many World War II rule sets: Bolt Action, Cross Fire, Rapid Fire… … for all these systems we use both 28mm and 20mm without problems.

One of the first problems to start playing with 20mm is: but what are 20mm miniatures like?One of the sites I use is: http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/PeriodList.aspx?period=1
It allows you to have a quick review of most of the 1/72 miniature boxes on the market. The site is not designed only for the Second World War but, thanks to the menu, it is possible to view the boxes of this period.

The second problem is… are we sure that the scale of the various manufacturers is "correct"?
This is also a problem for the 28mm but, to try and answer, I took this photo


It allows you to view the miniatures of five of the manufacturers that I usually paint. The miniatures are both in plastic (Caesar, Zvezda) and in lead (AB) and as you can see the scales are compatible. At least among these manufacturers.

I must admit that, the same manufacturer, sometimes builts sets that have not the perfect "dimensions" ... but the beauty of the miniatures overcomes this problem


For example, the Italeri winter Germans (miniature in the center) are a bit larger than the Zvezda miniatures or other Italeri sprues but can easily be combined

Third aspect to consider… they have few details and can hardly be changed.
This is not exactly the truth
This is the original image of a Zvezda frame



As you can see, with a few modifications, you can modify the pose
Without considering the awesome conversions of my friend Maurizio


A lot of wargamers tell me that 20mm miniatures have few details. As an amateur painter I admit that I prefer 28mm for painting but also 20mm… with the right scenario are not bad. The same miniatures out of the table...


And in action

I hope to help someone with this post